Old Time Religion?

When we’re in France, we’re Catholic. I don’t want to give up on attending church just because we’re in a foreign country; plus, Catholicism was a huge component of French identity, and still influences everything. 

Amazing artwork in Biot church

Culturally this country is so Catholic that they still believe it’s inappropriate to cut bread at the dinner table— a custom explained to me as symbolic of the eucharist. Even though most French abandoned their organized religion decades ago, we are very much in a Catholic country. So it’s important to experience the Catholic church service as part of life in France.

Of course, we’re not Catholic; we’re Episcopalian. Until a few years ago, we could just attend an Anglican church. But Taylor and I have taught our children that the love of God is so big that it includes enough love for everyone; and that’s a lesson that not all of our Anglican friends have caught on to. In fact, they’ve put us Episcopalians in time out. The Roman Catholics believe that non-Catholics can’t share in their sacraments, but without offending my Catholic friends, I think that’s their problem, not mine. Catholic it is then.

During our first week here, I spotted a sign advertising the Festival of the Virgin Mary of Good Ports- she protects the area ports, sailors and fishermen. The picture showed a big Virgin Mary hoisted up on a platform being carried through the streets of town by barefoot men. How many travel shows have featured one of these processions? I’ve even seen them in James Bond movies— we gotta check it out! 

Now perhaps some of yo remember the “How much Suffering can one Family Endure” post from 2014. Here I go dragging my kids to another crazy religious service where they don’t understand a word and can’t really tell what’s going on. They are probably going to end up in a religious cult one day because I’ve normalized the idea of joining in on religious ceremonies even when you have no idea what’s going on (spoiler alert- no Koolaid was served). 

It was Saturday night and we met in front of the Cathedral. A service was already going on inside so we waited outside. I still wasn’t sure what the procession was all about, but I was disappointed to learn that the Virgin was an early riser (and I am not). Tonight’s parade was to be led by a cross and a small band. She would make her appearance at 6:30 the next morning for a procession from the top of the lighthouse hill all the way down the Chemin de la Croix (of 2014 fame) and then down to the Cathedral. Alas, we’d have to settle for the cross. After a bunch of waiting around, no one looked like they were in charge; then a priest came up on a moto, robes a-flappin, parked and walked over. I guess he was late. 

Let's get this party started...

Following these guys down the streets of Antibes to the Port.

I took a bunch of pictures as we walked along through the streets from the Cathedral to the port, cars honking and people coming to look at us. I couldn’t help wondering if all of the tourists were looking at us and thinking about what good (weird) French Catholics we were to be spending our Saturday night marching in a procession. As I was taking pictures, Cooper really seemed to be getting into the solemnity of it all. Either that or he wanted the pictures to look very authentic.

When we got to the place overlooking the Gravette Beach, there was a pile of wood with a tree stuck in it. The boat; I guess the tree was the mast. I couldn’t help wondering if this was like the University of Miami homecoming— there’s a legend about which side the mast falls on it, but I think I always get it backwards. Anyway, there were some songs sung and prayers said. My boys were all well behaved and I think the older church-going French ladies looked on with approval. 

We went to mass about a week later and I thought I would help the kids follow along and learn some French prayers, so I downloaded French catholic prayers. They weren’t in order, so I had to skip around on my phone a bunch during service. I am not sure what the other church goers thought of the mom staring at her phone for the whole service, but I can only imagine. I asked the boys what they thought and Samuel said-‘mom, it doesn’t matter if you understand what’s going on in a French church because there’s always plenty to look at.” To which Cooper added- “yeah mom, I don’t know what’s going on at church at home, so it’s kind of like the same thing.” Bennett complained about French church about the same amount that he complains about our church. 

I have to say they were better behaved in French church; I think it was because they were so confused, they were just listening intently for some familiar words.

Waiting for mass to start- my good little (fake) catholics

The next Sunday, I decided to download the words to the ENTIRE mass in French. Awesome. In order, easy to follow. We got to church on time, got leaflets with the hymns and grabbed the readings in French and English. Ready to go— no surprises this time. Again, I would be staring down at my phone a lot, but at least we would have all of the words in front of us so we could follow along. Yeah- there was a Baptism. We were screwed.

OK, so it wasn’t all in order, but Cooper said he thought it was pretty special to see a Baptism. Bennett thought it went exactly the same, only they used less water. They are very good at reducing their consumption in France, so it was logical that they would use some conservation even for a sacrament. 

Cooper was disappointed both times that no wine was given to the congregation; only the priests got wine with Eucharist. I thought that was pretty weird considering that wine is cheaper and more plentiful here; but it has nothing to do with that. Apparently that’s the way they do it here.

All and all, pretending to be Catholic isn’t too bad. I sort of think the French Catholic church needs a little Carrie Short. Many of the churches are in serious disrepair and a lot of them frankly need a good cleaning.  I can’t get over the sad state of many of the churches we visit. Even the Cathedral in Antibes needs a lot of TLC. 

I could name a dozen historic chapels and churches where the walls were literally crumbling and artwork has been repaired with tape. The Chapel in Moustiers-Saint Marie is a French heritage site and gets thousands of visitors a year; but apparently still has problems raising money for the upkeep. I’m sure it’s not cheap to maintain a 600 year old building. 

Keeping things dark in Moustiers-Saint Marie so you can't see how the walls are crumbling

Church membership continues to decline here and tourists alone can’t pay to maintain church buildings. Of course it is sad to see congregations fold, but also very sad to see the churches fall into disrepair or be repurposed. 

I think it must be hard to support your country’s zealous commitment to separation of church and state while watching examples of your cultural heritage disintegrate in your own community.

Faux marble is crumbling in this church in Eze

I hope next time I’m here pretending to be “one of them,” the Catholic church has found some way to restore its appeal in French culture and not simply as historical markers.